Carders are constantly looking for a new ways to avoid banks and e-commerce fraud detection systems. These security solutions are mostly relying on browser fingerprints, which is the data left by a computing device while interacting in the field of analyzing and comparing these data. AntiDetect Browser is one of the most prominent tools allowing you create a unique fingerprint to spoof the fraud detection system.

If you’ve been carding and it hasn’t worked than it’s because you haven’t been using Anti-detect, the use of anti-detect is guaranteed to improve your carding, Bank account jobs and PayPal Jobs success rate. This is a Must have software and selling at a cut rate price compared to the official price of $400 :http://www.antidetect.org/buy/ I have used this myself and it has increased my carding success exponentially.

I am giving out the Anti-Detect for free so every carder (especially new carders) do not need to buy it, here is the download links:

• Anti-Detect v5.0: Click here to download (Password to unzip is “bro101”)
• Anti-Detect v5.2. Click here to download (Password to unzip is “bro102”)
• Anti-Detect v6.5. Click here to download (Password to unzip is “bro103”)

NOTE: We recommend you to use 7-zip to extract the file in case you have any trouble extract it.

Well, you will wonder why I give out for free, so here is the trick, if you not sure how to use the Anti-Detect, I am selling my guide here for $5.00.

By Anti Darvinchi

First I would like to thank you for reading this free premium guide and wish you good luck on your cashout adventures. Everything I wrote here is from personal experience, I tried my best to explain everything as clearly as possible and not forget any details but if something isn’t clear send me a PM and I’ll be glad to answer any questions.

Before starting you will need :

• CCs
• ANON sim cards (1 per renter and 1 per customer)
• Your computer (of course :P)
• Photo Exif Editor Apps (Runs with Android free app)
• Anon Offshore CC with IBAN attached (optional but very useful for quick big cashouts)

SUMMARY

1. Your renter account
2. Preparation
3. Your listing
4. Wait
5. Your customer account
6. Booking and cashout
7. Clean your bitcoins
8. Tricks

Now let’s start. This method will allows you to cahsout all CCs to BTC easily with fake listings on 9flats.com. 9flats.com works in Europe and America, have no security (but it would be better if you use VPN, SOCKS5 etc..) no chargeback and bitcoins are accepted.

Now I am going to explain you step by step the process:

1. DAY 1: Open an account (renter) on 9flats with a fake e-mail address, during the first 3 days log-in your account and visit the website, take quick looks on the listings (act like a real renter ).
2. During these 3 days, you will need to pick up some pictures of flats for rent (the best way is groups on Facebook). Once you have your pictures, you will need to change the exif datas (use « Photo exif editor » for that), to the geolocation of your fake listing (use a real geolocation, google maps is your friend) and very important change also the info « photo taken the … » and chose a date during these 3 days (very good to increase your scoring) and don’t forget your pics in .jpg (important ! ! )
3. After these 3 days create your listing on 9flats, the best way is to make a good standing flat in a chic place (approx $150 – $200 per day). Be a comedian ! Put periods of unavailability to look like to a regular renter. After that you will need to wait 48h to 72h before your rental ad is online.
4. After 72h max your ad is online, good ! Log-in sometimes everyday (or every 2 days) during 1 week to look like as same as a normal renter.
5. 1 week after Day 1 open a customer account (name must be as same as cc holder of course), act like a real customer, take your time to visit ads near the area of your fake flat, ask questions to other renters (4 days), after the 4th day : Card your own ad and don’t forget to contact the fake renter (you ! ) before, ask some questions etc…
6. Once your fake booking is OK, you will receive an e-mail from 9flats, again be clever, log to your 9flats account by the link provided on your e-mail from 9flats, but it would be better if you let few hours before your booking and your cashout. At the cashout the options are : Bank wire or Bitcoins, of course choose bitcoins.
7. The best way to clean your dirty BTC is grams they provide a new address every 10 hours.
8. TRICKS:
9. If after the booking you will have only 1 option : « payment in cash » the reason is that you have not been clever enough, so don’t forget to send some messages to others renters also with the owner of your fake flat (you ! ) during the booking.
10. You can also bypass the option payment in cash : make a distant booking of about 1month, this process is useful because it allows you to cashout the funds of your 1st booking.
11. The anon SIM cards may be useful if they need SMS verification (but not every time, I needed it one time only)
12. The anon CC with IBAN attached may be VERY VERY VERY useful to cashout BIG amounts ! (Why? Because you will be able to make fake bookings with big amounts without fraud because the owner of the CC is you, you will have to pay the fees of course but it would be very profitable and it will allow you to increase your scoring to 200%)

Congratulations ! Now you know this easy method to cashout all CCs to BTC, please don’t forget to act as a real customer / renter to avoid suspicions, if you follow step by step your guide it will be easy for you to make $200 benefits everyday.

CREDIT: Plenty of Coins

The key major updates done to this carding textbook: it will covers the basic of most carding knowledge. Going into absolutely everything would mean having to go into ID theft and fake IDs which can be classed as 2 different categories of their own.

What I’m going to cover:

A quick overview of what online carding is

• SOCKS and why we use them
• Finding a cardable site and what cardable means
• Carding “non cardable websites” with fake CC scans and other fake documents

Carding while on the job

• Getting CC, CVV, CVV2 through use of mobiles
• Skimming whilst on the job
• Using carbonless receipts to get details (pretty outdated method)

Trashing

• Trashing for receipts and credit reports (pretty outdated although still works)

Phishing over the phone

• Phishing over the phone for details

Keylogging for CVV2s

• Hardware keylogging

Carding In-store

• What in-store carding is (very brief)
• How it’s done
• How to act and present yourself in-store

Carding over the phone

• Carding over the phone

IRC

• Services provided in IRC
• Advantages to using IRC for info
• Disadvantages
• How to find carding channels (Will not go too much into this as there are secrets
• Vendors and how to approach them
• How to rip in IRC (Every vendor, reliable or not has ripped some noob who acted like they knew what they were doing)

Phishing for Change of billing

• What COB is and why it’s useful
• Use through phishing pages
• Use through keylogging

Drops and what you need to know about them

• Drops and what you need to know about them

What carding is:

Carding summed up quickly is the act of obtaining someone’s credit card information, from the CC#, CVV, CVV2, CVN, and the billing address, along with the expiry date and name of the person the card belongs to along with a signature.

Online Carding

Online carding is the purchasing of goods done over the internet with the CVV2. Now for you n00bies you’re probably wondering what a CVV2 is, it’s simply just the database of basic info for the card such as the card type (e.g. Mastercard) First and last name, address and post code, phone number of the card owner, the expiry date (and start date if it’s a debit card or prepaid CC), the actual CC number and the CVC (card verification code, which is the 3 digits on the back of the card).

This is the format you usually get them in when you buy off IRC:

:::MC ::: Mr Nigerian Mugu ::: 1234567890123456 ::: 09|11 ::: 01/15 ::: 123 ::: 123 fake street, fakeville, ::: Fake City ::: DE24 TRH ::: 01234-567890 :::

SOCKS and why we use them

Now with ANY fraud at all you have to take precautions so you don’t make it easy for anyone to catch you in your wrong doings. As usual I swear against TOR for carding/scamming because most nodes are blacklisted by websites and because TOR cycles through various different proxies; and even if you configure it to go straight through an exit node of your choice it’s still not worth it. You can use JAP but make sure you’re using some constant sock proxies from the same city, town or area that the card is from; also go war-driving and use a VPN (don’t trust anyone off IRC with these, won’t comply with LE).

You can get good SOCKS here (people are selling accounts for the site in IRC all the time), that’s the best place but even I ended up losing the account eventually.

want FRESH proxies every time you card.

Finding a cardable site and what cardable means

Basically a cardable site holds these characteristics and what you should be looking for to determine an easily “cardable” website:

• The top one you need to look for on the site’s TOS is that they send to any address they don’t, with a COB, photoshopped verification (will go into detail later) or some social engineering over the phone).

Secure code (most of the time if you ask your vendor they’ll include them in your CVV2 details textfile), if they do have one of these you have to put in and you don’t have them then don’t waste your time

• If they ship internationally (for obvious reasons, but you can just stick to local websites and order to your local drop)
• If they leave packages at the door when no one’s in, or around the back in a safe area (I know of one site in the UK that has all these qualities including this one, it is perfect for carding clothes) to call you up to verify or want a utility bill, passport or a scan of the actual CC)

It is hard to find websites online now that have most of these qualities, therefore we carding “non cardable websites” with fake CC scans and other fake documents the card, but they want verification either through phone or scans of a utility bill, credit card or passport.

For this you’ll want to get a pay as you go deal for a cheap shitty mobile all in fake to help you. Hell if the person’s details you’re using is local to you and you’re daring then go to their home and beige box from there; it’d be very convincing.

Carding, have some bullshit story if you’re having it sent to a diff address such as a family member’s birthday and you need it there as quick as possible as it’s a last it’s easy to get them mixed up, so make sure who it is calling you 1st.

For CC scans and how to do them check the attachments at the end of this file, they tuts have said to do, you then tilt them a little bit so it does actually look like a scan. To make it even more believable put some paper in the scanner (dark shade if you it and then do the same with the back, then send the scans to them via e-mail or post. Same goes for utility bills (can be got through trashing or your own, and then edited in PS).

Do not use the same designs when making your CC scans, otherwise it will become too I’m giving you a globe hologram image so you won’t have to buy them in IRC; unfortunately all of my visa hologram pics are shit, but I’m working on getting a good one soon.

Carding whilst on the job

Getting CC, CVV, CVV2 through use of mobiles

Believe it or not giving your information out to anyone anywhere is not a wise choice, you can not trust anyone in this day and age. Yes there are carders working on the and using them freely without a care in the world. The most common of places for a carder to work at are brand label clothing stores such as Limey’s, Charlie Brown’s and all the other trendy shops.

Ever noticed when yourself or someone else has paid at the desk with a debit card or credit card that they bring out a keypad from under the desk, then put your card into under the desk with it to get the keypad, they are doing more than just that; just because they’re not taking the card and running off with it does not mean they’re not stealing your information. A friend of my dad used to card and work in a clothing store, he used to have a piece of play doh stuck under the desk and he used to press the card onto the piece of play doh, unfortunately he began doing it too much and a co worker and from what I know he is still doing time. The moral is, be careful with already put on to the play doh. Also you can’t get the CVC through this method, I was just giving a classic example from the olden days.

But there is a new wonderful invention called cameras, video recording, and mobile phones and they are even all working on the same thing. It’s best to test it out 1st and have a camera on your phone that is at least over 2 megapixel and allows long enough video recording times. The phone is set to video record and on a lighting if needed, and taped underneath the desk for you to record both sides of the card for all the information you need, as well as being quick you can get a lot more than 2 on,

You need good reason to be going under the desk to get the chip and pin machine, so make the desk look cluttered up and put shit in the way of everything, such as coat hangers and various other items; or you could just flat out bullshit the customer and say that the chip and pin machine on the desk isn’t working so you need to get the other one, take their card and then go under searching the desk and quickly show it to the camera phone and then get the chip and pin machine and put the card in it and then hand to the customer to put in their pin as normal, unaware you have a CVV2 to later use when shopping online.

Skimming whilst on the job

For skimming you’ll want a mini portable MSR500M reader that can be fitted on your waistline belt or of course once again under the desk, if you’re a cashier. But you’ll also want a MSR206 writer if you plan on writing the tracks to an embossed CR-80 piece of plastic later (you can make these yourself but embossers are expensive and it’s an expensive procedure, so wait a while until you do that yourself and buy them from IRC (be careful, people like to rip with plastics, or you’ll get shit quality if you don’t watch out).

If you plan to just sell the dumps on IRC then that’s fine, but you’ll still need the PIN as well, so if you’re a waiter you can get a cheeky peek at them putting their pin into the chip and pin device while you keep hold of it slightly (have them put the pin in while they’re sat down and you’re standing up). It’s much easier to skim in a as much. You can keep the MSR500M in your front pocket of the uniform you’re wearing and pretend to be giving the card a clean on the sleeve (bullshit and say the device won’t read it), while really you’re giving it a swipe into your reader. This way the person doesn’t even get suspicious because you don’t take their card out of sight with them. I guess you could do that technique with clothing retail too when you get their card in your dirty little hands, but peeking for the PIN is harder or you’ll have to have a friend shoulder surf for it (or if they’re on the next register have them use a Sony cyber shot c902 camera phone and pretend to have them talking on the phone while really they’re recording the person next to them putting in their PIN; cybershots are really inconspicuous looking with their cameras and VERY clear [5mpixel]).

Using carbonless receipts to get details (pretty outdated method)

If the store you work at hasn’t gone carbonless on the transactions information then you can get most of the info from the receipt you get a copy of for yourself and note down the pin on this as well when/if you get it.

Trashing

Trashing for receipts and credit reports (pretty outdated although still works)

Ever heard the expression “Another man’s trash is another man’s gold”? That’s exactly what this is. You’d be surprised how many people haven’t heard of a paper shredder or bonfire. They just dump their financial records containing SSN’s/NI, full name, address, bank, credit card number, CVV, CVV2 etc. All on forms people couldn’t be bothered to dispose of properly because they thought they were JUST old records. Again carders wok on the inside again for when they want to do trashing, a lot of janitors wear rags but you’d be surprised how secretly rich most of them are (along with the other shit they steal from work as well). But also from this if there is not enough info for you on the forms then there is definitely the phone number of the mark on the form that they’ve scrapped; almost always, and if not then there is enough info on skills over the phone to get the extra info that you need. If you know of a store that is not carbonless, then go trashing in the bins at the back of the store for the receipts with the credit card details on it.

Phishing over the phone

Phishing over the phone for details

Ever had telemarketers ask for your credit card info over the phone? (this is if you haven’t already hung up by just hearing a nigger or paki on the phone) chances are these obvious scams. Even more people fall for this if they believe that the caller is from the credit card company itself or part of the secret service or credit fraud investigations; the FBI, CIA and police have nothing at all to do with credit card fraud believe it or not. If you sound professional or part of an important group such as investigations then people are more likely to comply with you if they believe that their card has been used for credit fraud purposes and have to give their credit card info and billing address for verification. The best time to call up the mark is when asap so that they can get back to work. Also if it’s “serious” then the secret service you’re pretending to be. Some social engineering skills are required and you must gain the experience of lying to people yourself. Before calling up the person find out as much information about them as you can.

If you’ve stolen a CC from someone personally you can call them up pretending to be from places such as South Africa, Nigeria, Turkey, Russia; places like that, get them to confirm their details (milk as much as you want out of them, ask them bullshit security questions such as their mother’s maiden name, address, etc; you may as well, it’ll make it easier to get a COB for you to use).

You can also get their PIN out of them if you want as well by either straight out asking them to confirm it, or be crafty and after you’ve told them to verify their PIN the phone for a few mins, have a female voice recording (use AV vocie changer) asking them to input their PIN on their dialpad (this won’t be as suspicious); get these recorded so they can be decoded with DTMF decoding hardware/software later

If you try hard enough you can get full info about anyone over the phone (I suggest using spoof-card for this).

Keylogging for CVV2s

Hardware keylogging

First of all it’s best if you use hardware keyloggers here that you put into the keyboard of a computer belonging to an area where a lot of people are going online a lot and logging into e-mails, ebays, paypals etc, pretty much giving you enough info for you to go searching through if you get in their e-mails, or maybe you’re lucky

And come back within 2 days time or so and collect the keylogger after doing some browsing yourself (as to not look suspicious just coming in and then leaving a few seconds later).

Or of course you could set one up in a business and do the classic call in and do some social engineering from the credit card company or secret service and have them go to the bank online and have them log in to verify, or maybe even have them log in to a fake bank online made by yourself that will collect anyone’s info who logs in on it.

Carding Instore

to a CR-80 piece of plastic and then either cashing out at the ATM or shopping for goods instore, as long as you have the PIN as well through whatever method you choose to use.

How it’s done is through the use of thejerm software or any other magstripe utility software (thejerm is the best to use). And you do it like this (Written by: Acetrace):

1. Load up thejerms software
2. hit settings tab
3. hit “Defaults” in Leading Zeros box
4. hit “75 bpi” in Set Track 2 density box
5. go bak to actions
6. hit LoCo or HiCo in Coercivity box, depending on which you want to do
7. input your tracks 1 & 2 (without the % ; or ? symbols because the program already does it for you)
8. hit Write Card and swipe your card. (i usually do a read card afterwards to make sure everything went ok)
9. GO SHOPPING!!!

Now how you should act when you go carding instore is pretty much common sense, but some people get caught up in the moment with nerves, cockiness or just too much weird amounts of excitement.

Don’t be stuck at the counter trying to remember it. If you’re going to be carding expensive goods then dress smart for the occasion, wear brand named clothing (that you’ve previously carded Razz) or even a suit. It would look suspicious someone with a you go instore, you ACT like you are using your own card, because essentially that’s what it is (well it is now anyway lol) no looking shifty and don’t look at the fucking cameras; the cameras mean nothing anyway, they don’t know your name or where you live, remember you’re doing nothing wrong. When you go in, don’t rush take your time, browse around some other items. Find the item you want to card and even ask the employee simple questions about it (if it’s a TV or comp just ask questions about certain specs and if it’s good for playing video games on). You’ll be most nervous at the checkout, just act as normal as you always have been, don’t make too much small talk but be polite and civil. Once you have the good sin your hands don’t bolt out the door, just say thank you and then casually walk out the door, get to your car and then celebrate all you want.

Carding over the phone

Extra lulz you could use a beige box and call from someone else’s phone but that’s a chance that you do get caught so we’ll keep it simple and use a payphone (it’s not AS risky to phreak these but the only recent red box tones I have are from the year 2007 and I’m pretty sure they’d have changed the system again…bastards, I’ll check sometime though . The next day postage is said so that they have less time to look up details on the order. Some cards will have difficulty shipping to any address other than the billing address, but it doesn’t hurt to try. If they start to question you then just answer the questions and talk your way around the situation with your social engineering skills; don’t just run away from the questions or hang up straight away, otherwise that is cause for suspicion and they may investigate. If all goes well you should have your item of choice delivered to your drop location or a house of someone else’s address who you don’t know and call them up saying that you called up the store and they’ve sent the package to the wrong address and it is still sending there, and work (this is a last resort and only to be tried if you’re good at talking to people, which you should be if you’re a carder). I recommend checking out the section on drops later on in this text.

I recommend using spoofcard for verification over the payphone, if they need to verify (if they won’t send without some verification which is usually the case).

IRC

Services provided in IRC

IRC is the main gathering for fellow carders, scam artists and rippers. To put it in a nut shell, IRC is THE black market, unlike craigslist and eBay which are just black markets. You can get anything illegal off IRC from CP to warez to CC details (which is what we want).

To concentrate on carding though you can buy:

• CVVs
• CVV2s
• SSNs
• Utility bill scans
• CC scans
• COB (a service to get someone to call up the victim’s bank and get the billing address
• changed to your drop)
• Payment for using someone else’s drop and then sending to you
• Spyware
• Fake ID/ ID scans
• DUMPZ
• Phisher pages

The list really is endless

Stumble upon by some random guy.

• The messages can be encrypted so they can’t be read by anyone happening to be on the network sniffing the traffic. This makes it harder for investigators to uncover.
• Easier and quicker to communicate with mass amounts of like minded people. being made every second, guaranteed).
• And of course a variety of services, if you need something you can bet someone from the other side of the world will be willing to share or/and sell to you.

There are a lot of disadvantages though, IRC is the equivalent of a backstreet alley, you’ll be fine if you stay cautious, here’s what you should be weary of:

• Viruses
• If you don’t have strong anti viruses and firewalls you will get infected (no norton shit, kaspersky and NOD32 are what you want)
• Do not accept random .exes or any file for that matter

How to find carding channels (Will not go too much into this as there are secrets

Here is the most commonly asked question I get asked by noobies and fellow carders; where do you find these channels?

no bullshit that is where I found out about a lot of the carder channels I used, also how I found out about forums and their IRCs too such as cardersplanet, darkmarket etc. How I found him out was just on a normal scam bait I was doing, it wasn’t a long one, but in the end he tried phishing me so I tried back and we had a laugh about it; I was straight up with him and told him I wanted to get deeper into the game, I looked up to his type of people and wanted to get rich/successful (I also shared the double claim (admittedly got ripped a few times) then started vending myself under various diff ask me for invites to cardingzone, I was banned for ripping

Vendors and how to approach them

are certain ways you should speak to vendors otherwise they’re going to rip you (remember this is the black market, this is just like going up to a random drug dealer in the street and not knowing what you really want or what you’re getting into; you’ll get ripped off). Ask as many questions as possible of what you want to know, if you’re buying a CVV2 ask to see proof of their details working (get them to make a small purchase somewhere; they should show you a before and after and the limits that are there on the card [there are methods out there of checking your balance; you can even get it through text/sms]. This is a market so remember there are more people that will be willing to buy from that vendor, it’s open for all, you can get a full load of info including dumps for as low as ?3/$5, drops usually go for ?7; if someone is saying higher prices don’t be afraid to haggle down to these prices or a little bit lower. COBs go for a little bit higher in ranges of ?15-?20 because the vendor needs to get your drop is.

Now when you go in the channel don’t fucking say or request anything, shut up and see is a ripper because you never know who is going to be there to help you out later on down the line or who might be pissed off enough to fuck you over.

I can’t give any big advice on not getting ripped in IRC because you don’t personally know anyone in there at all, you just have to take your chances (expect to get ripped your 1st few times going in there, just don’t go to them again, because if they get away with it once they’ll definitely try again if you go back to them).

DO NOT BUY ANY WU BUG (Western Union Bug); it is a massive ripper technique which is bullshit. The WU BUG used to work but was patched a long time ago, most of the time ridiculous prices for these too such as $200+; but if someone says lower prices it’s machine while you get some useless program that does nothing.

Ripping

Easy as hell to do, not much Photoshop skills needed really either.

Bullshit and say you’re selling full info (you’re getting the info from fakenamegenerator.com or any credit card gen program; of course they don’t fucking something and show them proof of you buying it, except photoshop the details to that which you’re going to be giving him later. Take payment through Western Union ONLY (since e-gold isn’t around anymore), then just send him the bullshit info.

bomber saying some bullshit reports. Then get the payment via WU.

To get victims you message them 1st, message out in the whole channel 1st and then PM random buyers (look for ones requesting).

::::WU BUG::::

seriously this is bullshit, all people are doing are showing buyers fake screenshots made in PS or are actually making quick programs themselves and taking screens of them and then selling them, although essentially they’re useless. You want to do this, but you want to actually send them a file as well, but bind a keylogger or Trojan to it; not only can you rip them out of their cash to buy your infection but the info you get from spying on them will be so much more as well ranging from their info to other stolen CC info, you’ll have a backdoor on what they do and can exploit it.

If you can’t be bothered making fake screenshots then get them from other rippers and rip some noobs.

Phishing for Change of billing

A billing address is the details used for a person’s bank account and most often their credit cards and everything else too, this includes their phone number too.

What a change of billing (COB) is in a nutshell is changing the billing address registered to the card to your drop address you’re gonna be using. When you want to card BIG at various online websites the orders will look more legit that you’re not changed the billing address), meaning the delivery of your goods will be quicker and will require a lot less verification.

Most of the time you change the billing address over the phone but SOME banks will let you do it online; when you phone up to change it you use spoofcard.com or the pay as you go mobile phone you’re going to be using when carding, or beige boxing Razz

When changing the billing address you need to know as much info as possible about the person’s billing address you’re changing, because the bank is going to ask you 3 security questions you set (such as mother’s maiden name) before they change it.

You can phish for details over the phone (see the phishing over the phone section above), however it’s best to use keyloggers and phisher pages for this with a MIX of over the phone.

Use through phishing pages

2 methods here, 1 including over the phone, one isn’t.

The method without the phone is to just send a ton of e-mails out to random people and send them a html e-mail telling them they need to update their information before the to a phisher page off the template and the phisher pages “requires” them to answer security questions like their mother’s maiden name, their pet’s name, you know those type of questions.

Another method is to call them up pretending to be the bank and saying there have been different ip ranges logging on their account and they need to confirm their details online, link them to the phisher page and have them fill in the details; have the phisher page redirect to the actual online bank’s login page; then ask if they’ve done say it’s all clear and tell them to log in, they’ll think nothing of it and you now have the answers to their secret questions which you can give to the bank itself when you go to change the billing address

Use through keylogging

This is my favorite method and what I told S_E last night in IRC.

You have a hardware (or software) keylogger set on someone’s comp, use sock proxies when logging into their online bank account and then change their password, call them fill in their forgotten password options (answering secret questions) or of course get them to go to your phisher page and fill in the details (this is if you want to add more fields to get more info) then pretend to be checking it all over, then change in (it doesn’t matter because they’re keylogged and you’ll get their new login if they change the password again anyway), you’ll have all their info logged down too for you to answer your questions when you call the bank.

Best time to do all of this is around the 10th day of the month (people usually get card enough for the remaining days until they see they’re not getting their reports coming to them anymore (if you’re crafty you can pretend to have cancelled the online bank account for them after they’ve gave you the info you need to know; I used to do this method and keep it going without them knowing).

Drops and what you need to know about them

What drop locations are and what they?re used for Well simply a drop location is an abandoned house, or any house that is not under your with them, get items delivered to them that you want no one else to find about or risking finding, or just use it to squat in if you have no where else to go. Basically they are used in ways of keeping your nose clean and are used by mostly scam artists and sex offenders.

How to find a drop location

There are many ways of finding a drop location for use, whether it temporarily or permanently (although I suggest swapping and changing locations because my main last one I used got raided or broken into and is boarded up and too hot to use); I will suggest 3 ways on how you can find some for you to use.

One final tip is don?t bother going for houses that are boarded up at the front where it is visible to passers by (it?s okay if round the back is boarded up)

Way #1

prefer to go about it is you should be looking around some older housing estates and more ghetto areas (could also tie in with the sob story you feed to a paedophile/child predator you are possibly scamming). For example in Derby there is an area called Sinfin, but now there is 2 parts to it and they are New Sinfin and Old Sinfin. Old Sinfin is the are you would want to go to, because it?s older it?s most likely to be alot more houses abandoned or deemed unsafe (it?s bullshit).

friend keep tabs and watching over it for you and give you details so you can keep it all under wraps and safe. It may be a lot riskier with neighbor hood watch morons, and noisy neighbors, but it’s still ideal and a little bit less suspicious than the abandoned houses in the older estates, and this is because the older estates usually have all abandoned houses close by, where as the odd one out covered with a street filled with inhabitants will seem less suspicious to the postman.

Way #2

Now this is a temporary way of finding a drop location, but is sometimes an effective ways and means of getting what you need but has a bit more risk to it; and personally is a way I have never used even till today.

family member?s or friends?, or been down the pub and heard the common as muck chavs away for?

house is most likely going to be empty for however long they?re going away for. So if you already know where they live then that?s great the job is made easier; if you know their first name and surname then look them up in the phone directory and find their address to go along with the number. If you don?t know where they live, or their name then just listen out to see if you can hear their names come up in conversation; just remember that if it?s in the pub it?s most likely local to it that they live, so you could easily find out by following them home and seeing.

Way #3

Possibly the safest, easiest way of finding, and quickest way to get a drop location.

Most areas have houses up for sale am I right?

Or houses that are up for bidding on, am I right?

Bidding on and for sale.

For example I would search Derbyhomefinders and look at the list on their site.

All of these houses are empty and often do not have a sign up outside them either (if they do then just take it down and hide it somewhere for the time being).

The advantage to using the lists to find the drop locations to use is it will usually say when the bid is up or if the house has been sold (this lets you know that it will not be ideal to use that certain house now it?s most likely to be inhabited) and will these are the ones you want to be using.

The best thing about this though is that you have a full list of many different drops to use (like I said earlier it?s best to switch drop locations and use many different ones) and it is updated with new ones coming up and tells you full which ones are over and not usable.

You just need to know your agencies for housing and find their website.

Obtaining and using drop locations

fuck do I keep it a secret?

WAY 1

this much is obvious that you do not tell anyone except your partner if you?re doing a team bait, and 1 trustworthy friend to keep tabs on it if you are doing a bait on your own, and also the paedophile, but only when he asks. But there is a lot more to it than there.

Appearance isn’t everything at all in any case and it isn’t for this either, but of course you try to make yourself look as best as you can. The same principles are applied to keeping an abandoned house; you should at least try to get a new lock put on the door which you will also have a key for; just so that if any druggies go there before you then they will have a tougher time getting in (of course it?s ideal you but also if there is a fucked up lock on a door then it?s pretty damn obvious only low life scum or some criminal(s) are using the place, so buy a new lock for the door and get it fitted on, whether you do it yourself or get assistance from a friend who knows what they are doing.

Now as for overgrowing plants and weeds, you can only do so much without being suspected. Do not use a lawn mower, use clippers and hack it as short as you can. It?s best to get all of this done when everyone is at work during the day time; but in reality it isn’t ideal at all and most criminals don?t tend to bother with this. Instead they will make it seem someone is in but is just too ill to do anything with the garden or is just a lazy fucker. They do this by often writing up a note and sticking it to the door or leaving it on the floor near the door saying something such as “No milk today please” or “Not in, please leave packages at post office”.

Write a few letters to yourself as well ready to come on the same day as the parcel, this will make it look like you get mail and not just the one off suspicious package now and then.

Now 2 alternatives, you can either get to the abandoned house and take the mail from the mailman while acting like you live there (you must look the part as lazy or take any packages to the post office for pick up because you are at work or something along those lines.

One final rule is do not be in and out of the hideout everyday or whatever, visit probably 2 or 3 times a week.

Way 2

Now there are 2 ways to go about this; you can either just get to the house early in the morning a little bit just before the postman arrives and be at the house outside pretending you?re just about to leave and then sign for the package (if you need to) and collect it off the postman and then be on your way after he?s gone. Or if you?re good at bypassing alarms (I have a guide on burglary) or the house has no alarm then you could bump key in at night time (not recommended) or during the day time the day before when everyone else will be at work as well, and hide out there for a bit (hell even take some food that is left in the fridge and feed yourself since you?re spending if at all, or if you do then put head phones on into the tv if it?s that old of a anyone looking after the house while the owners are away come in then you have time to hide.

Obviously if it?s a package you don?t have to sign for then you can stick up a note on the door early in the morning before the post man comes saying to leave it round the back or what ever excuse you wanna make up.

Way #3

Easy, just as previously except you don?t have to be as cautious and often the alarms are disabled for that time being anyway so you don?t have to worry as much if you bump key into it.

then take them down and just get them out of the way.

You can even go to this one the night before instead of day time because no one is hardly going to be watching over this unless it?s in a neighborhood watch area (in which case you chose the wrong area anyway, you dumbass).

Some basic tips to keep in mind

• Be there before the postman! can?t stress this enough, it?s too fucking obvious if you’re late.
• When signing for packages, if you need to, then sign a fake signature (the sig can be any made up fake shit) with your hand that you don?t write with, so it?s harder to trace in case things go tits up later on down the line.
• Take anything in any guide with a pinch of salt, things may be different circumstances for you and your situations

Credit: Omiscience

This is the Euro 5 template for Counterfeiter to reprint the Euro 5 currency. Click the below download button to download the template. Please beware that this is for evaluation purpose and counterfeiting is a serious crime throughout the world.

We recommend you to use 7-zip to unzip the file. The password to unzip is “moneygame“

Cashing out through exchange is a unique way yet the grey area in carding. It is simple and promising method. Before you start, you would need the followings:

• A Wallet 1 account http://www.walletone.com/
• A Visa/ Master Card/ Account for the cashout (like the anon Visa)
• A mobile number of the same country of the card you must cash out (anon SIM+ cell phone never used with another SIM)
• A Google Translator for translate all the Russian words of these websites

Now here is the list of sites you can go:

• http://m-obmen.com/
• http://x.obmen.com/
• https://www.moneychange.me/
• http://www.cash4wm.com/

There are a lot of Russian and Ukrainian exchangers where you can do that, but I’ll not list all them.

Exchange Visa USD to W1 and you’re will be redirected to the Liqpay payment processor page. It will ask to send a SMS confirmation to a mobile phone that MUST BE OF THE SAME COUNTRY OF THE CARD, or it will not works. Now you will see the VBV page, buy a DOB+SSN card so you can bypass it. You’re money will be sent to your W1 wallet. In you’re W1 account you can withdraw the money to a Bank or to a Visa. Withdraw to you’re anon Visa and enjoy you’re money.

Today, everyone is friendly with WhatsApp. We love to have WhatsApp on our phones. What makes WhatsApp best? WhatsApp allows messaging as well as voice calls and video calls for free. Users can also share Documents, Pictures, Videos, Audios, Locations, and Contacts with family, friends, and co-workers. Nowadays, you can also use WhatsApp Web and WhatsApp Desktop.

Daily several people in your contacts are viewing/visiting your WhatsApp profile for different reasons. Have you protected yourself from WhatsApp stalkers? How to know if someone is checking your WhatsApp? Are you concern about who viewed my WhatsApp profile and status? Is there a way to check who visited my WhatsApp profile?

If such questions are coming up in your mind, then this post is gonna help you out.

WhatsApp has no default option to track down who viewed my WhatsApp profile. A few WhatsApp profile viewer apps are available in the market and claiming they can check who visited my WhatsApp profile, but sadly, none of them is useful.

How to Know Who Viewed My WhatsApp Profile?

Is there any WhatsApp stalking app available? Yes, Google Play Store, iOS Store, and other third-party app stores are offering a lot of apps to check profile visitors for WhatsApp.

All WhatsApp profile viewer Apps like WhatsApp Who Viewed Me, Who Visit My Profile? – Whats Tracker for WhatsApp Android, Whats Tracker, etc., are FAKE.

In our reality check test, all of those who viewed my WhatsApp profile apps got failed. Their claim is bogus. These apps can not check those people who see my WhatsApp profile. All the contacts listed under the “Visited” section are random. Many of them are not visiting your WhatsApp profile or status.

You believe it or not, none of the third-party apps can tell me who viewed my WhatsApp profile. It’s a waste of time if you download and check who visited my WhatsApp profile and status.

Are you still in a dilemma and asking your self-

• How to know who viewed my WhatsApp profile and status?
• How to know who viewed my WhatsApp profile picture?
• How to know people who see my WhatsApp profile?
• Who can see my WhatsApp status?
• Who checked my WhatsApp profile?

You’ll never get the right answer to these questions because it not possible to check who visited my WhatsApp profile. WhatsApp will never compromise with user data and privacy.

How to Know Who Viewed My WhatsApp Status?

Are you aware of WhatsApp Status? Yes, now you can update your status on WhatsApp for the next 24 hours. It can be anything like the picture, multiple real-time images, GIFs, or videos. You’ll get notified of your WhatsApp status views. Yes, it is possible to set who can see my WhatsApp status. Learn how to use status.

Is this possible to check who viewed my WhatsApp status?

The simple one-word answer is ‘YES’…

It is easy to know who viewed my WhatsApp status. Follow the steps given below-

1. Open WhatsApp

2. Tap the Status tab

3. Tap on My Status > A List of all status will be shown

4. Tap on a status to see the views > Look for eye icon

5. Tap the eye icon to see > A list of users will populate

Follow the screenshot to understand the above steps-

Similarly, iPhone users may check the following screenshots-

Check out the list to see who viewed my WhatsApp status.

WhatsApp only permits us to see who viewed my WhatsApp status, not to know who visited my WhatsApp profile.

How to Know Who Viewed my WhatsApp DP?

Perhaps, there is no way to know or check who viewed your WhatsApp display picture. When I have enough information after a little research, then definitely disclose this secret to you.

Let me know your thoughts about this post. If you find this post useful, then don’t forget to share it with family and friends.

by Whatsapp Gigs

This is the USD 20 Dollar template for Counterfeiter to reprint the USD 20 Dollar currency. Click the below download button to download the template. Please beware that this is for evaluation purpose and counterfeiting is a serious crime throughout the world.

We recommend you to use 7-zip to unzip the file. The password to unzip is “moneygame“

So, all it about games and game stuff.

Regarding the MMORPG-Store’s AntiFraud & Defense System – elementary ways of such shops protection are:

• IP-address must be from the same state, better – city;
• Area code in entered phone must be from the same state;
• You’ll be invited to live chat and asked for some questions;
• If you’re looking nor trusted in first three steps, may be call requested;

About games themselves. You should know that many of game-masters don’t like that game currencies are selling for real money.

So be ready that in one beautiful day you can see the message like “Your account is banned. Reason is hacker, scammer, fraudulent etc”. So you’re under the risk when you save on account at the age of a week big amounts of game currencies. So don’t be lazy and enter periodically on the account and make visibility that you’re real gamer and you like to play. And don’t forget that if you card the currencies – there could be charge-back. And of course after it your account will e blocked anyway.

So what you need for work?

Good proxy-service of course with enough value of socks4/5 located in needed states/cities;

• Credit card or better paypal or more better more than one paypal – needed to be explained? I think not;
• E-mail. It’s better don’t use e-mails like 238jerom32 @yahoo.com. Don’t be lazy to search for some nicer addresses: something like MMORPG-KING@INORBIT.COM or SPACEWARRIOR @GAMER.LA (easy.la – hundreds of free domains) or LINEAGEFUN @WINNING.COM.

About shops and their owners. Most of popular MMORPG supermarkets belong to small yellow-skin people with proud of that there are 1 000 000 000 of such people on the Earth. Second place take Americans and the third place take nobody but it’s possible to put there people from ex-USSR. And what interesting that last people don’t like to serve people from their countries and they mainly targeted on USA and EU customers.

So that’s the list of things you will need:

1. Socks-service. Almost everyone knows where to find it.
2. VPN with good encryption.
3. Software:

• Permeo Security Driver, Socks Chain, FreeCAP and Other Analog
• Software which changes OS Language,OS Regional Settings & Time Zone,Date. Browser Type & Language.
• Trusted track-eracer removing all info without recovering possible: CyberScrub,Ashampoo ,TICEraser,ACRONIS Privacy Suite and other analog)
• AIM Messenger,Yahoo Messenger for possible contact with shop’s support.

Credit: MMORPG Gamer

This is the Euro 200 template for Counterfeiter to reprint the Euro 200 currency. Click the below download button to download the template. Please beware that this is for evaluation purpose and counterfeiting is a serious crime throughout the world.

We recommend you to use 7-zip to unzip the file. The password to unzip is “moneygame“

This is the Euro 20 (2015 latest) template for Counterfeiter to reprint the Euro 20 currency. Click the below download button to download the template. Please beware that this is for evaluation purpose and counterfeiting is a serious crime throughout the world.

We recommend you to use 7-zip to unzip the file. The password to unzip is “moneygame“

So if you use eBay or PayPal, then this guide is for you. If you’re receiving money on PayPal, and somehow, your PayPal account ends up limited, then you will find this useful.

If you’re getting auctions delisted and your eBay accounts are getting constantly banned, then make sure to read this.

And if you have no idea what eBay or PayPal is, you’re lucky. Perhaps read this anyway, it might be entertaining.

TIM’S STORY:

So I’ve been personally using eBay and PayPal for years and years now. I suppose by now, you can call me a veteran. I have battle-scars to prove with these two companies, countless account limitations, piles of frozen money. When I got another $X,XXX stuck in an account limited just 2 days ago, it dawned onto me (other than the fact that this really sucks), that a lot of other people are probably in the same position that I am. So at that moment, I decided that I was going to write the “Ultimate Safety Guide for eBay and PayPal”, so that I could help out the hundreds of other people facing the same issues as me.

For many people and myself personally, it’s a love-hate relationship with eBay and PayPal. Damned if you do, damned if you don’t – at the end of the day, you’re going to need them one way or another. I’ve spent quite some time researching some alternatives and there really isn’t much as far as substitutes go, so the best way to really deal with the issue is to educate yourself on how to use these services responsibly so that you don’t run into problems as often (I say as often because it would be unrealistic to eliminate problems completely).

This guide is going to be split into 3 pieces. It is as follows:

1. How to go stealth on eBay and PayPal
2. Safety Guide for PayPal – How to use PayPal without getting limited
3. Safety Guide for eBay – How to use eBay without getting suspended

My goal in this guide was to teach you some common suspension issues so that it’ll save you a lot of stress and frustration in the long run.

BASIC STEALTH INFORMATION FOR EBAY AND PAYPAL

With every account, you need to do the following things:

1. Different IP
2. Different user account on your computer (you can create new ones from the control panel)
3. Don’t mix and match different accounts, it will link them together and all will get banned.

How to change your IP if you’re in the United States or Canada:

To do this, log into your router (if you have a router) at 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.0.1 (depending on your router), and manually change your MAC address (a couple digits is fine), and save the settings. Afterwards, turn off your router and your cable modem for 10 minutes and turn them back on. Use whatismyip.com to check that your IP address has changed.

Go to whatismyip.com to check your current IP address

• Log into your router
• Change the last 3-4 digits on your MAC address (should be an option inside the router)
• Save changes, and cut the power to your router and your cable modem
• Start them up again 10 minutes later
• You should have a new IP address now
• Check at whatismyip.com to confirm that IP address has changed

SAFETY GUIDE FOR PAYPAL

How to use Paypal without getting limited

If you want to learn how to prevent getting suspended on PayPal, you’re going tohave to first understand a little bit about how it works. First off, PayPal limits accounts with suspicious or “high-risk” activity in order to prevent losses. The way it does this is by robots that are trained to identify certain behavior – certain triggers cause them to freeze up accounts.

Now, here’s the thing – they use robots to monitor your accounts. Since there are millions of PayPal accounts and thousands of transactions happening at every second, it is very unrealistic for them to have a big room of people monitoring every little activity. So these is essentially what happens in a nutshell when a limitation occurs.

Suspicious activity being done –> Robot picks up on the suspicious activity and triggers limitation –> PayPal asks for additional information –> PayPal human employee reviews information to reinstate your account or permanently limit it.

But here’s the good thing about robots – they’re actually very predictable. If you can learn what these triggers limitations, you can avoid them like land mines. So without further delay, let’s start learning some of the types of behaviors thatcause limitations.

Site Owners: Before you attach a new stealth PayPal to your website, READ THIS FIRST.
If you’ve had a PayPal attached to your website before and it gets limited, PayPal then blacklists your domain name from ever using PayPal again. So if you try toattach a new stealth account directly to your site, you’ll get banned again. Luckily, there is a solution.

Solution: If you use a third-party checkout tool that uses PayPal you’ll be able to accept PayPal without fear of being limited. Another thing that you can use is host the checkout on a different domain name so that the PayPal doesn’t see it. I’ve seen some people manually invoice their customers using PayPal too.

1. Always know your stealth basics

Learn how to access stealth accounts without getting limited. That means no proxies, no IP’s that change every 2 seconds (so no TOR or HMA).

Step 1 – Know your basics!

Here are some of the most common mistakes committed:

Use proxies, HMA, TOR, or any of those “IP hiding softwares”. eBay and PayPal have blacklisted these IPs’. If you use them, you will get banned, simple as that.
Not changing your user account between different PayPal or eBay accounts.

The exception is if you use a VPS (remote computer) as the files are separated automatically then.

Solutions:

Change your IP legitimately through your cable or DSL company. Or even easier, just buy a windows-based VPS with an IP in the same country as your PayPal or eBay.

Go to your control panel, create a separate user for your new PayPal or eBay account. Use your PayPal and eBay exclusively just on that user account. Even easier, just buy a windows-based VPS with an IP in the same country as your PayPal or eBay.

2. Moving money too fast

Cause: One of the most common ways to get an account suspended is by moving money too fast. Let me give you an example.

Let’s just say that you received $200 right. Then 5 minutes later you try sending that $50 to someone else or try to buy something with it. Boom, your account gets limited. In PayPal’s eyes, the reason why they limited you is that when you move money too fast, it looks suspicious, so they limit your account and stop you dead in the tracks.

So it applies to:
Receive money –> send money
Receive money –> withdraw money

Solution: When you receive money in your PayPal account, let it sit in there for 2-3 days before you try spending it, withdrawing it, or doing anything with your money.

3. Taking in too much money

Cause: One of the most common ways to get an account suspended is by moving money too fast. Let me give you an example.

Let’s just say that you received $200 right. Then 5 minutes later you try sending that $50 to someone else or try to buy something with it. Boom, your account gets limited. In PayPal’s eyes, the reason why they limited you is that when you move money too fast, it looks suspicious, so they limit your account and stop you dead in the tracks.

So it applies to:
Receive money –> send money
Receive money –> withdraw money

Solution: When you receive money in your PayPal account, let it sit in there for 2-3 days before you try spending it, withdrawing it, or doing anything with your money. Cause: The second most common way to get an account suspended is by taking in too much money at one time. Look at it from PayPal’s stand-point. If a guy that doesn’t have an established history of receiving large amounts of money suddenly starts getting hundreds of dollars at one time, it looks pretty suspicious. Don’t be the guy that receives too much money at one time, or you’ll get PayPal limiting you and asking you for personal details.

Solution: So how much money is too much? On a newer account, start off by taking payments less than or around $100 and don’t let the total balance on the account get above $500. If the money gets near $500, wait a couple days and withdraw it or send it to another account. Of course, when your stealth account gets older, you can start getting larger amounts of money, but if you really want to be safe, that’s the general guideline you should follow. Now if you need to receive more money than that, just use multiple stealth accounts to break the payments up.

Another potential outcome if you take in money too fast is that they will ask you for social security information in order to make sure you’re properly taxed. Now PayPal quotes that this number is something like 200 transactions of $20,000 a year, whichever comes first. However, if you come out of the gate taking in a lot of money, they’ll ask you for social security much sooner. So the best way to combat this is to just receive money through different accounts so the funds are more dispersed.

4. Spending/Withdrawing Exact Amounts of Money/Not leaving any money left in PayPal

Cause: Let’s just say that you have $600 in your PayPal balance. If you try to go ahead and withdraw $600, you’ll get limited. Always try to leave some money in PayPal, at least 10% (don’t make it exact). When you withdraw like all your balance, it makes PayPal think that you’re robbing the bank and skipping town. That means it’s suspicious, so don’t do this.

Solution: Always try to leave some money in PayPal (at least 10%). So for example, if you’re withdrawing $600, leave like 60-70 dollars in there, don’t withdraw everything. You’d be surprised how many people get limited by this sort of problem.

5. Error: When you try to send money, and get this message: “Add funds in your PayPal before sending money” when you do have money in the available balance

Cause: When you try to move money too fast on a relatively new PayPal account. PayPal has this this filter that prevents you from sending out money. If you have a relatively new account and get this message, your account is under a soft review. However, don’t freak out, because chances are, if you don’t do anything else that’s suspicious during this time, they’ll usually release the balance in a couple of days.

Solution: When you get this message, don’t try to send money out over and over again. Just leave the balance for a week and come back to try to send it again. It could last up to 21 days, so try again here and there. Most of the time, it’s resolved after a couple of days.

6. Ask for “identity verification” through phone call.

If this happens, just press cancel, and they will let you confirm other information, specifically your full bank account numbers. After you enter this, your account will go back to normal status.

SAFETY GUIDE FOR EBAY – HOW TO NOT GET LIMITED

Using eBay without getting suspended is very similar to using PayPal without getting limited. This shouldn’t be very surprising because PayPal is owned by eBay. The only thing that differs really is the function. eBay is used to buy and sell items, PayPal is used to send and receive money. So let’s get started with the most common suspensions on eBay.

1. MC999 Suspension – When you’re a relatively new user and you get this notice when you’re trying to list your first item.

So you just got an account, and you list your first item. After 12-24 hours later, your item gets taken down and they give you this notice when you log into your account. However, don’t panic, because this is relatively common – about 25% of new accounts get this the first time that they list.

Solution: Within 48 hours of getting this notice, call eBay up directly at their phone number. I believe it’s 1-866-877-3229. Talk to the customer service representative and ask them why your account got limited. Then answer some questions and confirm account details with them. The questions that they’re going to ask will go something like this:

• First, they will transfer you to an account specialist.
• This account specialist is going to ask you the following questions:
• Is this your own item (respond yes, and nod your head)
• Is somebody helping you with listing (respond no, and shake your head)
• Are you drop shipping the item or have it in your possession (tell them that it’s in your possession. do NOT let them know you’re drop shipping, even if you actually are).

And that should be it. Then they’ll take 2-3 minutes to review your account, and give you 3 possible responses:

• Possible response #1: If you listed an item that is relatively low risk (non-branded or a brand that’s not commonly counterfeited), then they’ll tell you that they’ve unlimited your account and you’re ready to list again.
• Possible response #2: If you listed an item that is pretty high risk (a brand that is commonly counterfeited and protected by their VERO – verified rights owner program), then they will tell you that you’re selling items that are too risky, and that they cannot do business with you anymore. At this point, they will permanently suspend your account.
• Possible response #3: If you list an item that is high risk, they will ask for you to verify your identity with the account by faxing in your ID and some personal information. Of course, if you have a stealth account, chances are you won’t be able to provide this documentation.

This brings me to the second most common suspension reason.

2. You’re selling items that are too high risk!

One of the most common mistakes when it comes to selling on eBay is that people think they can sell just about anything. This couldn’t be further from the truth. On eBay, items are either high risk or low risk. It all depends on the brand name of the item. Brands like Dre Beats are high risk whereas other brands like Abercrombie and Fitch are low risk. If you list a high risk item, your item will get delisted from eBay and you’ll get suspended (if you’re new, you’ll get suspended permanently. If you’re a veteran, they’ll put one strike on your account – you can get three strikes before getting perm-banned).

Solution: Know which items are high risk and which ones are low risk. The only definitive way is to just go ahead and list some items and mark down which ones get removed and which ones don’t.

the key to eBay is simple. Start slowly without selling items that are high risk until you have a good amount of feedback and established selling history. Disburse sales through multiple accounts to diversify your risk and decrease the volume per account.

This article was published by Tim from BuyVCC.com

This is the Alabama (U.S.) ID template for Counterfeiter to reprint the Alabama (U.S.) ID. Click the below download button to download the template. Please beware that this is for evaluation purpose and counterfeiting is a serious crime throughout the world.

We recommend you to use 7-zip to unzip the file. The password to unzip is “wickybay“

This is the Euro 10 template for Counterfeiter to reprint the Euro 10 currency. Click the below download button to download the template. Please beware that this is for evaluation purpose and counterfeiting is a serious crime throughout the world.

We recommend you to use 7-zip to unzip the file. The password to unzip is “moneygame“

• Quality CC/CVV to an address, full name, phone number, zip code, city, and state (don’t get junk cards pay good money for good cards)
• Socks 4/5 to the state and if you can the city since that would be perfect. This sock must have never been used before so don’t be cheap and get a quality sock. Socks are just as important as quality cards!
• You will need programs to cleanup cookies and other flagging shit. Get CCleaner – get the free version it has everything you need. Get the flash cookie cleaner – it is free as well
• Antidetect 7 or FraudFox VM: These are not needed but they really increase your carding success to almost 100% if used correctly and setup properly which both are not very hard to do.
• A drop address or if your carding digital items you don’t need that.

OK now let’s Card

First Method (Most successful)

Do this on a fresh reboot and make sure you have used ccleaner and flash cookie cleaner and they are running. Used disk cleanup in windows as well.

Go to Amazon and create a new account using the new fresh sock you have. Now you will need to act like a typical buyer so we can’t just jump right in. Go and search for a few items but don’t buy anything, just add anything to your cart small stupid items, not the items you going to card though.

Now logout, and leave your computer don’t do anything else on it. Put it to sleep. In 5 hours log back in. Clear out your shopping cart, now let’s card.

Go and find some items depending on your card limit that are anywhere between $30 and $150. Now using the credit card you have pay for the items in your cart. You may need to wait for amazon to approve your order or not. Sometimes it’s random I swear.

Now the order should have been accepted and shipped. If not then you either have a shitty card worth less than what you trying to card or you threw a flag. Go back and check your setup. This is pretty full proof way to card amazon. If everything is in place and you have your bases covered you should be in and out. Make sure you check to see if you IP leaking cause that would throw a flag as well: https://www.dnsleaktest.com

Now we can also speed up this order if it’s in processing just so it doesn’t get charged back and flagged before it gets shipped. Send amazon an email from the email that you created for this account. Gmail is preferred email for this setup as it is much more trustworthy do to its security signed up measures. Use an excuse to make them speed it up. There is excuse kind of tie into what you are buying. So let’s say you want a 800 dollar cannon camera then tell them that you need it for  — day for your college project or you will fail the class etc. Don’t forget it’s real person on the other end so make your excuse real and don’t go too in depth.

Now they may ask to call you on the phone number associated with the CC account. This happens maybe 30% of the time. Just say OK and hope no one picks up the phone on the other end and luck I on your side. If they send you another email saying they tried to contact you but no answer then simply say “I am so sorry I changed my number and I haven’t update it with my CC company yet” then give them a burner number where you can actually answer.

Now if all goes smooth then you have carded your first real item on Amazon. Now that you have done that your account is trusted and you can place an order between $500-$800 or until the card is maxed out. Stay below $2000 per order. Max the card out as quick as you can but be inconspicuous and act like a real buyer. The security for the most part are bots and the formulas they use are really intense so when I say act like a real buyer I mean that or you will get limited and blocked.

Just understand that these methods work 90% of the time and the majority of the success of carding I on the carder himself and the setup he has. With Antidetect or Fraudfox the carding success is closer to 95%. Amazon, eBay, and PayPal are getting harder and harder to card and fraud every day and pretty soon it won’t be possible so understand that you need to have everything in tip top setup and stay ahead of bots.

Second Method

This method is a little better for low level cards or just an easier method then the above as the security is a little more lenient because the purchase amount is less. This method is also not as successful as the above method.

Everything is the same as above except this time purchase an item worth around $2.00. Get the lowest and cheapest delivery time as it throws less of a security flag.

Now once your order is approved just like the first one your account is now a trusted account. I recommend using FedEx for your shipping method as it has less security compared to UPS and USPS for the real order.

Now card a total of $600-$800 dollars and it should go right through.

You can also open a seller account and attach the CC to it and purchase through a seller account. It is a little more work but your success will be greater.

Thank you and don’t forget if a payment is declined it’s 50% of the time the card so make sure your cards are good.

Thank you all and I wish you good luck in your endeavors.

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